Overview
- Beta Series: General Purpose Hardshells
- Alpha Series: Climbing Focused Hardshells
Alpha IS is excluded because it's insulated.
MSRP | 399 USD | 599 USD | 675 USD | 599 USD | 799 USD |
Breathability Packability Weather Resistance Durability Length Bagginess | |||||
Beta LT | Beta AR | Beta SV | Alpha AR | Alpha SV | |
Weight | 395 grams (13.9 oz) | 460 grams (16 oz) | 495 grams (17.5 oz) | 430 grams (15.2 oz) | 510 grams (18 oz) |
Gore-Tex | N40d 3L GORE-TEX | N40d Most Rugged 3L GORE-TEX PRO N80d Most Rugged 3L GORE-TEX PRO | N80d Most Rugged 3L GORE-TEX PRO | N40d Most Breathable 3L GORE-TEX PRO N80d Most Rugged 3L GORE-TEX PRO | N100d Most Rugged 3L GORE-TEX PRO |
Women's counter-parts | |||||
Cell | #Note: All face fabrics are DWR (durable water repellent) applied. DWR is a coating. It's basically sprayed on to the surface of these jackets as a finish. It stands for Durable Water Repellent - which means that water will be repelled under wet conditions instead of soaking into the fabric. DWR also decreases dry time. It's a good thing these jackets are coated in DWR, but pay attention to the fact that DWR is a coating - meaning that it will wear off over time. Which is why you might want to invest in a DWR spray such as this one for after treatment. As you see, there's a strong correlation between FP x FW and temperature ratings, but not more than, say, 80%. I explained why this happens here in this post of mine. | ||||
Beta AR in black. Great at everything, but exceptional at nothing.
Alpha line is centered around climbing and alpine activities while Beta is around versatility.
Suffix list:
- SL: Superlight
- FL: Fast & Light
- AR: All Round
- SV: Severe Weather
You can see the source to all these on Arc'teryx's own Naming Scheme Page here, for both Alpha and Beta, as well as suffixes such as SL, FL, AR and SV.
Arc'teryx Alpha vs Beta: General Differences
There are some differences applicable to all Alpha and Beta products.
- Chest pockets of Alpha are placed higher and only allow crossover access: Better for climbing, worse for anything else
- Alpha line offers a few climbing specific features:
- Hem Locks at the bottom,
- Slightly longer in the back and shorter in the front (better for leg mobility & weather protection when the harness is on)
- Trimmer cut,
- Higher chest pockets,
- Storm hood
Before we get to examine all products in detail, let's take a look at two different hood configurations Arc'teryx offers.
StormHood vs DropHood
Except Beta AR, ALL Alpha and Beta products offer StormHood: There is no separate collar and the hood is directly integrated into the jacket/collar with a seamless design.
Beta AR comes with DropHood: Hood is separate from collar as you see and draws up around it.
None of these jackets offer stow-away hood (they just hang down when not in use) and both are helmet compatible & adjustable.
In summary, DropHood of Beta AR would be more convenient when not the hood isn't in use, and the StormHood of all other 6 jackets would be more convenient when the hood is in use.
Lastly, here's the full performance data table to all Arc'teryx hardshells and softshells:
Colors indicate design intentions:
- Red: All-round, general purpose;
- Green: Hiking, backpacking, trekking;
- Blue: Snow sports,
- Grey: Climbing & alpine activities.
Bold are my top picks for each category. Also see my Arc'teryx Favorites post to read more about this.
| Breath-ability | Pack-ability | Weather Resistance | Durability | Length | Bagginess |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
7/10 | 7/10 | 5/10 | 4/10 | 6/10 | 7/10 | |
8/10 | 5/10 | 8/10 | 9/10 | 7/10 | 8/10 | |
8/10 | 3/10 | 10/10 | 10/10 | 10/10 | 10/10 | |
10/10 | 8/10 | 2/10 | 3/10 | 6/10 | 5/10 | |
10/10 | 5/10 | 3/10 | 7/10 | 7/10 | 6/10 | |
8/10 | 4/10 | 4/10 | 8/10 | 6/10 | 6/10 | |
3/10 | 8/10 | 5/10 | 3/10 | 8/10 | 7/10 | |
8/10 | 5/10 | 8/10 | 9/10 | 6/10 | 7/10 | |
8/10 | 3/10 | 7/10 | 8/10 | 6/10 | 3/10 | |
6/10 | 5/10 | 6/10 | 6/10 | 7/10 | 3/10 | |
8/10 | 3/10 | 9/10 | 9/10 | 10/10 | 6/10 | |
7/10 | 8/10 | 8/10 | 7/10 | 10/10 | 7/10 | |
7/10 | 7/10 | 8/10 | 7/10 | 9/10 | 8/10 | |
5/10 | 3/10 | 8/10 | 6/10 | 10/10 | 6/10 | |
9/10 | 5/10 | 8/10 | 8/10 | 7/10 | 8/10 | |
8/10 | 3/10 | 10/10 | 10/10 | 9/10 | 10/10 |
If you still can't decide, here's something that might be of help:
- JacketFinder Tool: https://arcteryx.com/us/en/shop/jacket-finder/
Now let's compare the relevant Alpha and Beta shells to one another.
Alpha AR is incredible at climbing, but "above average" at everything else.
Arc'teryx Alpha AR vs Beta AR
Let's start with examining the positioning of AR a little bit more.
Think of a straight line. Now, there are jackets offer great features, durability and weather protection (SV model) on one hand. And there are very light jackets offer superior mobility (SL, LT, FL models) on the other hand.
Being positioned right in the middle of these two extremes, AR (All Round) models are focused on versatility.
Among Alpha AR, IS, FL, SV, SL and Beta AR, LT, SV, SL models; Alpha AR and Beta AR would be the safest picks for most of us - provided that they won't be used for very specific activities only.
- Face Fabrics: Although both are equipped with N40d 3L GORE-TEX PRO, so called "Most Breathable" face of Alpha AR makes it a little more breathable and a little less durable to so called "Most Rugged" face of Beta AR
- At 1 lbs, Beta AR is nearly 0.1 lbs heavier than the Alpha AR
- Drop Hood and shorter collar of Beta AR feel more comfortable when not wearing the hood and Storm Hood and taller collar of Alpha AR feel more comfortable when wearing the hood
- Alpha AR has a few climbing specific features:
- Hem Locks at the bottom,
- Slightly longer in the back and shorter in the front (better for leg mobility & weather protection when the harness is on)
- Trimmer cut,
- Higher chest pockets,
- Storm hood
In summary, if you're looking for a jacket to use a wide variety of outdoor activities as well as everyday use in very cold weather, absolutely go for Beta AR. If you're looking for a climbing specific jacket that you can also wear daily, Alpha AR would be the better option.
Typical buyer profiles
Basically your choice comes down to your own needs and desires.
Check out my Best Synthetic Insulated Jackets post.
If this is you:
"Our winters are very cold in my city but I want to stay active throughout the winter: A lot of winter hikes, outdoor hockey, skiing, cycling, climbing and more; as well as everyday use."
Absolutely go for Beta AR.
This is probably not only the better choice between Alpha AR vs Beta AR for you but also among the entire Arcteryx Jackets - I'd doubt you can find anything equally versatile.
- Alpha AR (Men's - Women's - read my review)
- Redesign includes updated fabric to GORE-TEX PRO Most Rugged Technology, RECCO® reflector and custom TPU zipper pulls.
- Beta AR (Men's - Women's - read my review)
- Redesign includes updated fabric to GORE-TEX PRO with Most Rugged Technology, RECCO® reflector and updates to the hood and collar for improved fit.
So... disregard any comments or reviews put forward before 2020 summer.
Beta AR is also cut around an inch shorter than Alpha AR. It's also a little baggier, which makes under layering a little more comfortable.
Now...
If this is you:
"Besides not-so-much everyday use, I'll spend 90% of my time rock/ice climbing when I have this jacket on."
Go for Alpha AR.
It's cut short in the front and longer in the back which allows not only better leg mobility but also better weather resistance when the climbing harness is on.
Higher chest pockets are more central around your body and hence don't mess with your center of gravity. They don't get blocked off when wearing the jacket with a climbing harness either.
StormHood (seamless design) feels more comfortable when the hood is on but less when it isn't compared to Beta AR.
Longer collar configuration covers your entire chin, but can chafe into your jaw and can feel annoying.
HemLocks which hold the jacket below a harness as you reach up are available. It's also a little (0.1 lbs) lighter than the Beta AR with a slightly trimmer cut.
That's because their page devoted to naming is currently unavailable at http://www.arcteryx.com/naming-scheme.aspx?country=us&language=en.
Luckily, we found a few screenshots of it on archive.org: https://web.archive.org/web/20161118032844/http://www.arcteryx.com/naming-scheme.aspx?country=us&language=en
Update: Now available back again on https://www.arcteryx.com/us/en/help/arc-naming
Breathability
Both jackets do an amazing job in this department, although the special admiration goes to Alpha AR here.
Before they were revised back in July 2020, I actually rated both Beta AR and Alpha AR a 8/10 breathability. But the Alpha AR's face fabric update to Most Breathable Gore-Tex carried it to a whole another level.
It scores a whooping 8/10.
Additionally, this 8/10 is not among all the shells in the market, but among Arc'teryx (extremely high quality) shells only.
Also, in addition to being equipped with breathable fabrics, both Alpha AR and Beta AR offer mechanical venting (through pit-zips):
Pit zips of Beta AR (see GIF). Those of Alpha AR are the same.
This eventually made it the most breathable Arc'teryx hardshell, according to my own ratings.
This advantage, however, does not come without some other sacrifices. Which brings me to my next point.
Durability
I gave Beta AR a 9/10 and Alpha AR a 8/10 here - the main reason being again the face fabrics.
Though I should mention that both are the ultimate "buy once, cry once" piece.
Also they have a great warranty & customer service if you're unaware. Durability and warranty is the last thing you should worry about when looking for an Arcteryx product.
It's likely that both jackets will come "noisy" to you in the beginning because of their solid constructions, but don't worry. They'll get less noisy over time as the higher friction areas such as pits, collar and elbows wear with time.
Rugged nature of Beta AR will last more than Alpha AR.
Weather Protection
This goes hand in hand with durability. If I could, I'd give Beta AR a 8.5 and Alpha AR a 8 in this department because of their face fabrics. But I prefer working with whole numbers, so the numbers round.
By the way, liquid chemical coating DWR (Durable Water Repellent) is applied to both jackets. It's what causes the water to bead and roll off. It doesn't have any effect on the soft or hard feeling of face fabric.
DWR is a coating.
It's basically sprayed on to the surface of these jackets as a finish. It stands for Durable Water Repellent - which means that water will be repelled under wet conditions instead of soaking into the fabric.
DWR also decreases dry time.
It's a good thing these jackets are coated in DWR, but pay attention to the fact that DWR is a coating - meaning that it will wear off over time.
Which is why you might want to invest in a DWR spray such as this one for after treatment.
As you see, there's a strong correlation between FP x FW and temperature ratings, but not more than, say, 80%. I explained why this happens here in this post of mine.
So, the most important thing you should know about it is that it wears off with time. Like any other coating.
Collar Configuration
Alpha AR's taller collar provides better coverage when zipped to the end, but otherwise feels less comfortable. Shorter collar of Beta AR feels very comfortable both ways, without any considerable weather protection sacrifice when using the hood.
Pockets
Chest & Hand Pockets
Alpha AR's chest pockets are placed higher than Beta AR so that it wouldn't (1) block the access to them when wearing the climbing harness and (2) throw off the center of gravity.
Lower chest pockets of allow easier access. Hem Locks of Alpha AR are (which aren't available in Beta AR) great for climbing.
I don't like the crossover chest pockets of Alpha AR (at left) during day to day use. I'm more used to the classic pockets of Beta AR (at right) as I like having the option to walk my hands in there.
Internal security pocket
Internal security pockets are identical:
This pocket is very useful when it's raining because your electronics in the hand pockets are exposed and hence can get damaged.
Hem Locks
This is a great feature to have if you climb. Since Beta AR takes out all the climbing specific features, it isn't equipped with hem locks unlike Alpha AR. With the harness on, they make a great job holding the jacket in its place as your reach up.
Comfort and Fit
Beta AR is baggier and bulkier, while Alpha AR offers a bit trimmer cut.
Weight
At 1 lb, Beta AR is still quite light, although is 0.1 lbs heavier than Alpha AR. Still, either are considered "a lightweight jacket" because of their lighter LT and SL counterparts.
Cut
Cut longer in the back and shorter in the front, Alpha AR allows more leg articulation and goes even more specific into the climbing direction Another thing that makes Alpha AR a perfect climbing jacket. It comes with a trimmer cut than Beta AR. You want
Click on either image to enlarge. Although both listed regular fit, Alpha AR is closer to the Trim Fit side and Beta AR to Relaxed Fit side (for both men's and women's models).
Sizing
7 sizes available for men and 5 for women allow further fit and hence comfort.
Men's sizing. Click on image to enlarge. Click here to figure out your measurements.
Women's sizing. Click on image to enlarge. Click here to figure out your measurements.
Arc'teryx Alpha FL vs Beta FL
Caution: Both are discontinued as of Spring 2021 - though you can still find them on other stores such as REI and Backcountry.
In summary, Alpha FL is the packable alternative to Alpha AR.
As I explained earlier into this post, Alpha AR is actually the most well balanced, central product in Arc'teryx's Alpha line.
This is why Alpha FL can be a great option for those who'll be traveling to climb, and hence in need of a packable Alpha AR with as little performance sacrifices as possible.
Beta FL, on the other hand, is the packable alternative to Beta AR.
Alpha SV Jacket Women's.
So, if you're looking for a general purpose hardshell that packs small, look no further. Beta FL is probably exactly what you're after.
Read my in depth review of Beta FL here: https://outdoorcrunch.com/beta-fl-review/
Arc'teryx Alpha SV vs Beta SV
Alpha SV and Beta SV are both extremely protective shells. You can not go wrong with either of them. They're designed for the harshest conditions.
The answer to Alpha SV vs Beta SV is similar to other Alpha and Beta comparisons.
For heavy climbing use in severe weather, get the Alpha SV. For a wide variety of severe weather use, get the Beta SV.
Read my related reviews here:
- Beta AR vs Alpha SV: https://outdoorcrunch.com/beta-ar-vs-alpha-sv/
- Beta AR vs Beta SV: https://outdoorcrunch.com/beta-ar-vs-beta-sv/
One word on Beta SL Hybrid
Caution: Beta SL Hybrid is discontinued as of Spring 2021 - though you can still find it on other stores such as REI and Backcountry.
As you might already know, I don't recommend the Beta SL Hybrid. Mostly because of its waterproofing issue.
Read more about this in my review: https://outdoorcrunch.com/arcteryx-beta-sl-hybrid-review/
I hope this post was helpful for you to learn more about the jacket(s) in your mind.
Feel free to ask me any questions or provide feedback and I'll be happy to respond in the comment section below.
Guide: Insulated & Shell Jackets
Start here:
Complete list:
Also see:
Thank you for reading!
I have a Theta AR, that I use for speed walking, in weather as cold as -20 C windchill., which is a high output activity and I sweat a lot lol. I luv its long length, and it seems none of the Alpha or Beta products you review are as long as its 83.5 cm.
I wonder what is the comparable replacement in future, as not sure after reading all links related to what is best. Ratings at https://outdoorcrunch.com/arcteryx-alpha-vs-beta/ suggest the Alpha AR is the most breathable, which is impt, but Beta and Alpha SVs win on weather resistance, durability, and bagginess , which are impt. to me too. Not sure why you rated the alpha AR as a 7 for length, as it’s the longest of all 4 on their website at 79.5 cm?