Arcteryx Alpha vs Beta

Overview

In Fall 2021, Arc'teryx decided to discontinue Alpha IS and introduce Beta Long. 

Alpha line is centered around climbing and alpine activities while Beta is around versatility. 

Suffix list: 

• SL: Superlight
• FL: Fast & Light
• AR: All Round
• SV: Severe Weather

You can see the source to all these on Arc'teryx's own Naming Scheme Page here, for both Alpha and Beta, as well as suffixes such as SL, FL, AR and SV. 

Arc'teryx Alpha vs Beta: General Differences 

There are some differences applicable to all Alpha and Beta products.

Before we get to examine all products in detail, let's take a look at two different hood configurations Arc'teryx offers. 

StormHood vs DropHood

None of these jackets offer stow-away hood (they just hang down when not in use) and both are helmet compatible & adjustable. 

In summary, DropHood of Beta AR would be more convenient when not the hood isn't in use, and the StormHood of all other 6 jackets would be more convenient when the hood is in use. 

Lastly, here's the full performance data table to all Arc'teryx hardshells and softshells: 

Now let's compare the relevant Alpha and Beta shells to one another. 

Arc'teryx Alpha AR vs Beta AR

Let's start with examining the positioning of AR a little bit more.  

Think of a straight line. Now, there are jackets offer great features, durability and weather protection (SV model) on one hand. And there are very light jackets offer superior mobility (SL, LT, FL models) on the other hand. 

Being positioned right in the middle of these two extremes, AR (All Round) models are focused on versatility. 

Among Alpha AR, IS, FL, SV, SL and Beta AR, LT, SV, SL models; Alpha AR and Beta AR would be the safest picks for most of us - provided that they won't be used for very specific activities only. 

In summary, if you're looking for a jacket to use a wide variety of outdoor activities as well as everyday use in very cold weather, absolutely go for Beta AR. If you're looking for a climbing specific jacket that you can also wear daily, Alpha AR would be the better option. 

Typical buyer profiles 

Basically your choice comes down to your own needs and desires.

If this is you:

"Our winters are very cold in my city but I want to stay active throughout the winter: A lot of winter hikes, outdoor hockey, skiing, cycling, climbing and more; as well as everyday use."

Absolutely go for Beta AR.

This is probably not only the better choice between Alpha AR vs Beta AR for you but also among the entire Arcteryx Jackets - I'd doubt you can find anything equally versatile. 

Beta AR is also cut around an inch shorter than Alpha AR. It's also a little baggier, which makes under layering a little more comfortable. 

Now...

If this is you:

"Besides not-so-much everyday use, I'll spend 90% of my time rock/ice climbing when I have this jacket on."

Go for Alpha AR.

It's cut short in the front and longer in the back which allows not only better leg mobility but also better weather resistance when the climbing harness is on. 

Higher chest pockets are more central around your body and hence don't mess with your center of gravity. They don't get blocked off when wearing the jacket with a climbing harness either. 

StormHood (seamless design) feels more comfortable when the hood is on but less when it isn't compared to Beta AR. 

Longer collar configuration covers your entire chin, but can chafe into your jaw and can feel annoying. 

HemLocks which hold the jacket below a harness as you reach up are available. It's also a little (0.1 lbs) lighter than the Beta AR with a slightly trimmer cut. 

Breathability

Both jackets do an amazing job in this department, although the special admiration goes to Alpha AR here. 

Before they were revised back in July 2020, I actually rated both Beta AR and Alpha AR a 8/10 breathability. But the Alpha AR's face fabric update to Most Breathable Gore-Tex carried it to a whole another level. 

Though I should mention that both are the ultimate "buy once, cry once" piece.

Also they have a great warranty & customer service if you're unaware. Durability and warranty is the last thing you should worry about when looking for an Arcteryx product.

Rugged nature of Beta AR will last more than Alpha AR. 

Weather Protection

This goes hand in hand with durability. If I could, I'd give Beta AR a 8.5 and Alpha AR a 8 in this department because of their face fabrics. But I prefer working with whole numbers, so the numbers round. 

By the way, liquid chemical coating DWR (Durable Water Repellent) is applied to both jackets. It's what causes the water to bead and roll off. It doesn't have any effect on the soft or hard feeling of face fabric. 

So, the most important thing you should know about it is that it wears off with time. Like any other coating. 

Collar Configuration

Alpha AR's taller collar provides better coverage when zipped to the end, but otherwise feels less comfortable. Shorter collar of Beta AR feels very comfortable both ways, without any considerable weather protection sacrifice when using the hood. 

Pockets

Chest & Hand Pockets

Alpha AR's chest pockets are placed higher than Beta AR so that it wouldn't (1) block the access to them when wearing the climbing harness and (2) throw off the center of gravity. 

Lower chest pockets of allow easier access. Hem Locks of Alpha AR are (which aren't available in Beta AR) great for climbing.

Internal security pocket

Internal security pockets are identical: 

Hem Locks

This is a great feature to have if you climb. Since Beta AR takes out all the climbing specific features, it isn't equipped with hem locks unlike Alpha AR. With the harness on, they make a great job holding the jacket in its place as your reach up. 

Comfort and Fit

Beta AR is baggier and bulkier, while Alpha AR offers a bit trimmer cut.

Weight

At 1 lb, Beta AR is still quite light, although is 0.1 lbs heavier than Alpha AR. Still, either are considered "a lightweight jacket" because of their lighter LT and SL counterparts.

Cut

Cut longer in the back and shorter in the front, Alpha AR allows more leg articulation and goes even more specific into the climbing direction Another thing that makes Alpha AR a perfect climbing jacket. It comes with a trimmer cut than Beta AR. You want

Sizing

7 sizes available for men and 5 for women allow further fit and hence comfort.

Arc'teryx Alpha FL vs Beta FL

Caution: Both are discontinued as of Spring 2021 - though you can still find them on other stores such as REI and Backcountry. 

In summary, Alpha FL is the packable alternative to Alpha AR. 

As I explained earlier into this post, Alpha AR is actually the most well balanced, central product in Arc'teryx's Alpha line. 

This is why Alpha FL can be a great option for those who'll be traveling to climb, and hence in need of a packable Alpha AR with as little performance sacrifices as possible. 

Beta FL, on the other hand, is the packable alternative to Beta AR. 

So, if you're looking for a general purpose hardshell that packs small, look no further. Beta FL is probably exactly what you're after. 

Read my in depth review of Beta FL here: https://outdoorcrunch.com/beta-fl-review/

Arc'teryx Alpha SV vs Beta SV

Alpha SV and Beta SV are both extremely protective shells. You can not go wrong with either of them. They're designed for the harshest conditions. 

The answer to Alpha SV vs Beta SV is similar to other Alpha and Beta comparisons. 

For heavy climbing use in severe weather, get the Alpha SV. For a wide variety of severe weather use, get the Beta SV. 

Read my related reviews here: 

• Beta AR vs Beta SV: https://outdoorcrunch.com/beta-ar-vs-beta-sv/

Arc'teryx Beta AR vs Alpha SV

If you're torn between Beta AR and Alpha SV and you don't have any other option for any reason, then deciding between them is a piece of cake (really): 

• Get the Alpha SV if you'll be using the jacket for climbing 90% of the time. 
• Get the Beta AR if you'll be doing a wide range of different outdoor activities with it.

If I were to choose, I'd prefer climbing with Beta AR from time to time rather than climbing, hiking, fat biking, skiing, and on and on with Alpha SV from time to time. So this is actually a very easy question and my answer would be the same any day. Or in other words...

In summary, Beta AR is really great at everything but exceptional at nothing, whereas Alpha SV is EXCEPTIONAL at climbing but, say, "above average" for all the other activities.

I can safely say that Arc'teryx's Beta and Alpha lines are 95% identical in terms of performance and technical qualities such as durability, weather resistance, breathability, packability etc. 

You can also see this in the data set I've put together. Notice how Alpha AR performs identical to Beta AR and Alpha SV performs identical to Beta SV: 

In our case, Alpha SV is noticeably superior to Beta AR except in the breathability department where they perform equivalent to one another. 

So how do they differ besides these performance capabilities?

• Sleeve lengths, 
• Pocket configurations,
• Hood configurations.

Despite what it may seem to some of you, these differences aren't minor. They are, on the other hand, what essentially make the Alpha SV an alpine and climbing focused piece and Beta AR an all-round piece.

Needless to say, if you're wishing a jacket with Alpha SV's technical performance capability and Beta AR's design configuration, then I'd recommend the Beta SV my eyes closed. 

Now I'll mention the differences laid out above.

Sleeve lengths

Since this is objective, it's easier to cover. 

You want your hands and wrists to move as freely as possible when you're climbing, so shorter sleeves of Alpha SV come more suitable than longer sleeves of Beta AR. 

Still, velcro adjusted cuffs of the Beta AR are MUCH better than nothing when climbing.

Pockets

This is my main beef with wearing an Alpha SV (or any Alpha sub-model) during anything other than climbing related activities.

Easily accessible chest pockets of Alpha SV make your entire equipment readily available when you're wearing a safety harness during climbing.

From my perspective, this is beyond "nice to have" and actually a "must-have" for many climbers out there. A major climbing advantage you have with Alpha SV and not with Beta AR.

But these pockets come really impractical when you aren't wearing any harness. You can't even walk with your hands in your pockets (because, unlike Beta AR, Alpha SV doesn't offer any hand pockets) when it's cold out.

Hood Configuration

In short, in many cases, DropHood of Beta AR would be a bit more comfortable when not wearing it, and StormHood of Alpha SV would be a bit more comfortable when wearing it.

Because, DropHood is separate from the collar whereas the StormHood is directly integrated into it. You can see some images about Drop Hood vs Storm Hood here.

DWR

Lastly, both jackets are DWR coated. 

One last word on Beta SL Hybrid

Caution: Beta SL Hybrid is discontinued as of Spring 2021 - though you can still find it on other stores such as REI and Backcountry. 

As you might already know, I don't recommend the Beta SL Hybrid. Mostly because of its waterproofing issue. 

Read more about this in my review: https://outdoorcrunch.com/arcteryx-beta-sl-hybrid-review/